Human Aesthetic Info
Several medicines are used by Naturale Clinic. The main ones are the Retinoic Acid, the Glicolic Acid, the Ascorbic acid (vitamin C), Lighteners and the ones that provide Sun Protection, as well as the auxiliary creams like DMAE and Elastinol.
The topical medicines act inside the skin, preventing the aging, delaying its speed and rejuvenating the skin. With the use of the medical cosmetology, a lot can be obtained, spending just some minutes at home. The use of creams is an important part of the Program of Light Facial Rejuvenation, because it won't only improve the skin, but help maintain the good results obtained. Botox for wrinkles, the lifting with Botox, fillers, Superficial and Medium Peelings, Bioplasty, and the conditioning of the skin can delay the necessity of surgeries, correcting the aging problems.
As we can observe in this part of the site, there is a great amount of clinical treatments for the facial aging. Even with all those resources, a large amount of money is still invested on modern researches for new methods. Those treatments are already very popular and they are already routine in many centers. They certainly bring important benefits to human aesthetic. However, it is important to remind that there is a measure that can be used separately or along with the other treatments. It is very simple, very efficient, easy to use and, most important, it is not expensive: The sun protection.
The sunshine is the most important external factor responsible for the aging of the skin. To describe this factor, the term Photoaging was created. Photoaging, considering the alterations of important aesthetic changes, can be seen on the areas of the skin that are usually exposed to the sun. The sun increases the stains and the fine wrinkles, worsens the expression wrinkles and furrows, increases the laxity and rugosity. There is also a concern about the skin cancer, that also has its incidence increased by sun exposition.
The tanned skin has always been considered beautiful, and besides, if has indeed become the characteristic of a people. We, Brazilians, are the " Tanned Skin People”. It is known that sun excess causes harm to the skin and to the health. But in recent years the medical science has discovered that the sun causes much more harm than they imagined The skin cancer and the facial aging are very tangible possibilities.
The skin, as well as the whole human body, is formed by cells. The cells have a nucleus that is where the genes and the DNA are. They control the whole operational process of the body. A disarrangement in the DNA causes cancer.
In the sun rays there are certain radiations that can alter the DNA, causing skin cancer. The nature created a mechanism that is capable to protect the nucleus of the cells of the skin from the harmful sun rays that can alter the DNA. That mechanism is the Melanin system. The Melanin is a dark pigment that exists in the cells of the skin. When we are exposed to the sun, this pigment moves and forms a protection around the nucleus of the cell, as if it was a parasol.
That movement of the melanin to protect the cellular nucleus is what originates the beautiful tan color. Therefore, to tan is to play of forming a melanin parasol to avoid cancer. It is to play with a very serious thing!
Besides the cancer, the sun rays also cause the Photoaging.
Photoaging is the aging of the skin caused by the exposure to the sunshine during all our life.
It is possible to verify the effects of the sunshine in the aging of the skin when we observe the women who have taken a lot of sun. The skin of their lap is more exposed and the skin of the area of the breasts is more protected. The area of the lap has a much more wrinkled and spotted aspect than the area of the breasts that was protected by the clothes. It is very clear that the action of the sunshine causes alterations inside the skin that accelerate the aging process.
Therefore, the sun can cause cancer and accelerate the aging of the skin. The ideal of a tanned beauty should be reconsidered. In some great centers there is a fashion trend that has been observed of valuing the clear skin. The white color of the skin is being now associated to illustrious and educated people, that know about the harmful effects of the sun. Maybe within some time the exaggerated suntan may be considered "old fashioned", what would be very healthy.
The Action of the Sun on Skin:
It increases the roughness
It increases the wrinkles
It reduces the elasticity
It increases the laxity
It increases the pigmentation
Special cares with the sun
Avoid taking a lot of sun
Do not consider a tanned skin as a beauty ideal
If your skin is white, wear sunscreen daily, even for normal activities, because the diffuse light also cause photoaging
If you decide to get sun tan, wear powerful sunscreens and be exposed the minimum possible, always in the beginning of the morning
The sunscreen protects the skin against the aging process, but it is not a warranty and it doesn't protect so well against the skin cancer.
The machines of tanning also provoke cancer and they age about the sun. They are not safe.
What does sun protection factor (SPF) mean?
A very used term when we talk about sun protection is "SPF" . To determine the SPF, the time of sun exposure before a person's skin gets red without sunscreen is considered and compared with the time of sun exposure before a person’s skin gets red wearing sun screen. The whiter the skin, the smaller the period of time. The amount of sunscreen to be used is 2 mg/cm² of skin . For instance: If a white skin is gets red after 3 minutes of sun exposure, it would get red in the same intensity after 45 minutes with a SPF 15 sunscreen if the amount of 2 mg/cm² was used. The amount used is usually much smaller, around 1 mg/cm². Therefore, the time of protection is smaller than the 45 minutes as in the theory. We also have to take the quality of the sunscreen into account. The sunscreen is necessary and it is a great protection. However, it does not mean that wearing sunscreen one can stay in the sun without any risk.
Do water and perspiration remove the sunscreen?
They do. That reduces the time of protection. We need thicker layers of sunscreen; therefore, if we are exposed to strong sun or for a long time, we should repeat the application every 2 hours.
Is it necessary to wear sunscreen when the sky is cloudy ?
It is necessary. The cloudy sky only reduces the radiation by 10%. It is almost as if there were not clouds. Protection against the sun is necessary.
Does a parasol on the beach avoid the complications of the exposure to the sun light?
It protects a little. The sand, the water of the swimming pool and also the clear floors reflect the light and it reaches the people under the parasol.
What is the amount of sunscreen that should be applied on the face and the body?
The largest that is comfortable and economically feasible.
Do people with dark skin need sun protection?
They do. They need less than the one who have clear skin. Skin cancer and photoaging may happen in dark skins.
DMAE is one of the medicines that are used orally or injected, a new presentation for local treatment of the skin.
DMAE / DEANOL, with the technical name Dimethylaminoethanol, is an important antioxidant of the cellular plasma membrane. It is a precursor, or a substance that forms another; in this case the acetylcholine. the Acetylcholine is a neuro transmitter. That means this substance allows the passage of the stimulus among the nerves or between the nerves and the muscles. Used in the skin it results in a slightly firmer skin. It also has some tensor action both in a short and long terms. It is believed that these effects are due to the muscular contraction. In the studies carried out with DMAE/Deanol, the effects observed were the increase of the firmness of the skin, a firmer skin in the area of the eyes and a more defined facial outline.
It is naturally present in the human body in small amounts.
Found naturally in some kinds of fish, such as the anchovy, sardine and salmon.
It acts on the muscular fibers of the organism, firming them firmer, more invigorated and elastic. "Mixed with other nutrients, combined with an antioxidant and applied as a base on the skin, DMAE provides an improvement in the appearance of the flaccid skin."
DMAE has presented a small, but visible lifting effect, especially in the outline of the jaw, around the lips and in the eyelids. These results are visible for the physicians and the patients after some months of continuous use, twice a day.
DMAE is not BOTOX in cream. And it is really a big mistake to think that DMAE is "botox cream". Their effects are exactly the opposite. While DMAE stimulates the muscle, BOTOX blocks their action. Therefore, DMAE is not indicated for folds between the brows, but for laxity.
In our clinic we used DMAE but never as the only treatment. It works as a support for lighter cases and to treat the skin. We combine DMAE with the classic retinoic acid, but always used with other products that increase its acceptability.
DMAE can be applied locally for the firmness of the skin. An average of 10 applications are performed, in intervals of 1 week. Usually 4 ml of DMAE are used in the dermis. It can be applied in the mandible outline and in the cervical area.
Elastinol makes the skin firmer, elastic and denser in a short period of time. It may be combined with several active substances, promoting synergic and potential anti-aging action.
Among the actions of this medicine, the anti-inflammatory action in the most superficial layers of the skin and in its deepest layers regulates the synthesis of the elastin, of the collagen and of the glucosamynoglicans that are components of the cellular interstice. An action on free radicals is also observed. Elastinol is able to significantly stimulate the proliferation of the main cellular type of the dermis, the fibroblasts, responsible for the biosynthesis of the fibers associated to the firmness and elasticity of the skin.
Therefore, the result of a treatment with Elastinol will be a firmer and denser skin, besides making it more elastic, protected and resistant.
The most used lighteners are the Hydroquinone, the Kojic Acid and the Azelaic Acid.
This compound acts in the cells that produce the melanin, the melanocytes, blocking the production and increasing the degradation of the melanossomes, the intra-cellular corpuscles that store the melanin. Hydroquinone also blocks the action of the enzyme called tyrosinase, that participates in the formation of the melanin.
It is a bio-product of a fungus called Aspergillus, that grows in the corn in Japan. It has a similar action to the one of the Hydroquinone. It is an alternative to the Hydroquinone, for patients who are intolerant to it.
The Azelaic Acid Cream 20% is a lightener, although it has a long term effect.
Chemical lightener composes
They are already classic formula used for the lighting treatment.
Pathak’ s Formula
Westerhof’ s Formula
Acqua Licorice Extract PT: Extracted from the root of the Glycyrriza Glabra Linée, its active substance is the glabridin. It is an excellent lightner.
Melawhite: it is an inhibitor of Tyrosinase and a lightener.
Arbutin: Extracted from the bearberry, it is a lightener that doesn't need to be transformed into Hydroquinone to act. It has both a lightner and an antibacterial action which has supported medicine in acne treatments.
It reduces the signs of skin ageing, resulting in a softer skin. It also attenuates the finest wrinkles and stimulates the tissue formation that gives sustentation o the skin. The inconvenience is that the patient cannot be exposed to the sun because it may produce stains on the skin. In the beginning of the treatment, there may be normal but uncomfortable reactions that disappear after some time. It is the most efficient of the topical products if we consider all of its positive effects. It acts on the DNA of the skin cells, increasing their capacity of renewal. It is also efficient for reducing the oiliness of the skin.
It causes an increase of collagen in the dermis. It also produces lighter reactions than the reactions caused by the retinoic acid, but it is less efficient. The patient must avoid being exposed to the sun during the treatment, but it has less complications than the retinoic acid. It can be used combined with the Retinoic Acid and the Vitamin C to increase the effects and to reduce possible reactions, since a smaller amount of each product is used. It is presented in several concentrations.
It combats the free radicals and stimulates the formation of collagen. The origin of the product is very important, because it is necessary that the Vitamin C is stable and penetrates the skin. Although there are many creams with vitamin C in their formula, only some larger laboratories have the technology to produce an effective product. When the product is bought, the information about the durability of the vitamin C used in the preparation has to be provided. It also has to contain information about wheter it penetrates the skin. An advantage of the treatment with vitamin C is that it doesn't stain the skin if the patient is exposed to the sun, which is something that has to be taken into consideration in sunny countries like Brazil.
This cream is a great innovation, but unfortunately, it is not a botox cream yet, with the same effects of the Botulinum Toxin.
It has been presented with the names Argireline, Argirelina, Botox - like, Dermo - Relax, Injection - Free, Post - Botox, botox cream, etc.
The Biological Action of the cream is really similar to Botulinum Toxin’s, but in a much smaller intensity. It does not substitute Botox, but it can be used as a complement.
The cream, as well as the Botox / Dysport acts in the liberation of the acetylcholine, the bubbles that are part of the nerve and that cause the muscular contraction. The blocking of the contraction results in the flatness of the skin.
But differently from the Botox, the Argireline Botox –like Cream does not block the nerve completely and there is still a muscular contraction. As a consequence, its results will proportionally be much smaller than the results of the Traditional Botox.
In our clinic we use Argireline, the cream with “Botox effects“ as a part of the dermatologid formulations to support the treatment. Botox / Dysport continues to be the star of the cosmiatric treatments, and we continue using it as always. Howevwe nowadays we can offer a great help with the argirelina cream.
They are micro bubbles that take the medicine inside the cell. With the ultra modern chemical techniques, liposomes can be created inside liposomes. The liposomes allows us to treat the skin without large intolerances.
Alfa Lipoic Acid
Frequently used with the Vitamin C and DMAE, it is a powerful anti-oxidant.
It stimulates the penetration and the action of the active substances.
Formed by bioflavonoides, it is a stimulus to the synthesis of collagens.
It is a powerful anti-aging that increases the recovery of the skin starting from the basal membrane.
Extracted from the lupine, it contains amino acids and oligosaccharides necessary to the synthesis of proteins and ceramides of the skin.
Appropriate to the oiliest skins.
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